Murcia

24 - 27 May

Cathedral

Highlights of a tourist’s trip to the provincial capital and university town, Murcia, are the cathedral and casino. The cathedral was built atop the site of a mosque in 1394 - it really appears to be de rigueur to squish the memory of any other religion by building all over the top of all preceding edifices. The cathedral, as you can observe, is a highly decorated structure and very impressive in person. However, the unexpected modern features of pragmatic preservation also made quite an impression - namely, the pigeon spikers. To discourage poop and roosting, tiny metal spikes are adhered everywhere. This makes the Virgin Mary and all biblical figures represented look as if they’ve just gone in for a serious course of acupuncture. And, as Phil pointed out, they would not look out of place on a heavy metal album cover. Inside, the vaulted ceilings and elegant stained glass windows juxtapose with the kitsch, coin-operated electric candles.

(Look carefully at the dead bird - a triumph of spikes and netting)

We spent three days in Murcia, camped out at the especially comfy and central Hotel Zenit. Compared to Valencia’s Red Nest, Zenit was an oasis of calm and cleanliness. (I read what Phil said about Red Nest - he was being nice! Oh and Dayll - yes I did get a migraine while I was there - perhaps due more to the acrid smell and orthopaedically challenged mattress than the décor.) One could say that you can’t compare a three star hotel with a youth hostel only, hang on - the price for each was the same. Hmmm? Zenit had everything you could wish for and some quirky features you’d never dream of such as a ‘pillow menu’ which we perused but were too chicken to discuss with the hotel as it all seemed too bizarre and goofy for serious contemplation.

On our second night we discovered Plaza de San Juan and a lovely Italian restaurant. So much did we enjoy the food, service and atmosphere (not to mention the delicious complimentary bottle of Lambrusco) that we returned the following night. The plaza was surrounded by ancient buildings and character apartments with balconies upon which territorial canines faced off in multi-storey bark-fests. As irked owners marched their pooches back indoors, the woofing gave way to wandering flamenco guitarists and accordian players who busked for the restaurant patrons in the 5 or 6 establishments across the plaza.

Our trip to Murcia was not the highlight of our Spanish experience but a pleasant interlude to catch up on some much needed sleep as we prepared to make our way south, to Andalucía.

Scenes of Murcia:

School of Arts